so I snapped my rear drive shaft u joint today and now I need to source some parts before IHWR.
Its a Dana 300 TCASE, does anyone know the part number for the U Joints I need? Also I think that the issue is from a cracked coupler (I am not sure what else to call it) can anyone tell me what this is and where I can order a new one?
I ordered the double carden already and the u-joints, why do you think I need a new yoke because of how it is chewed up? i or is it just best practice to replace it all at the same time? what about the Diff Yoke then? I don't believe I can remove the DS Yoke...
Fortunately the DS landed on the e-brake line so it did not smash into the pavement, so I think its straight still.
you need a complete new double cardan cv assembly plus the drive shaft end BECAUSE ITS ALL CHEWED UP AND doesnt have the strength it had previous to getting chewed up, ITS DAMAGED.
so the end of the driver shaft gets replaced, and the entire DC cv joint- including the yoke on the transfer case output shaft.
as for the axle breather - I make some better axle vent bolts, that replace the oem bolt that also holds down the rear brake hose.
its got a much longer hose nipple on it, plenty of room for attaching a hose and hose clamps.
you dont need a kit, just a better axle breather bolt and a length of hose.
i suggest running a hose from the axle vent up to the engine compartment, as high as the engine air cleaner.
stuffing the hose in the rear wheel well or just above the axle will get water in the axle, wont have that problem if the hose is up by air cleaner.
John T wrote: Tue Apr 11, 2017 1:24 pm
i suggest running a hose from the axle vent up to the engine compartment, as high as the engine air cleaner.
stuffing the hose in the rear wheel well or just above the axle will get water in the axle, wont have that problem if the hose is up by air cleaner.
Mine is by the air cleaner, I have the front axle, transfer case and rear axle all teed into each other. So only one line ends up at the aircleaner. Only drawback is I can sometimes smell the gear oil, depends how sealed your firewall is.
64 C1300 4X4, 345, T34, T18, NP202, D70F with ARB & 35 spline Chromoly axles, RA15 with Detroit Locker, 41" Iroks, front & rear PTO winches, recent makeover.
yep. on one of my older scouts they were all combined and T'd and plugged into the aircleaner housing.
now i just have them all run to a T with a vent cap in the end of the hose, looped at the heater core housing.
FA, RA, Trans and Tc
Thanks for the tips. I have new hose to run up to the engine bay, and Ive orederd a new drive shaft, from a local place that should be able to get to me before IHWR!
hopefully you measured center [rear diff] of yoke to center [t/c] of yoke on your scout with vehicle on the ground.
and gave the d/s company that measurement
all yours needed, if it wasnt bent, was the double cardan end replaced on your driveshaft.
best to upgrade to larger diameter tube and thicker wall when getting new driveshaft made.
